Keeping psittacines

Choosing the species

Owning a tame parrot is the dream of many bird lovers. But before acquiring such a bird, you must find out all about its specific needs. Even if you can fall for a magnificent parrot, the purchase must never be impulsive, but always carefully thought through. The life expectancy of parrots is indeed very high: around fifty years for the large species. The choice is therefore paramount. Besides the purchase price, which can be a barrier to acquiring large parrots such as the African Grey, the amazon or the cockatoo, the noise they can make must be taken into consideration. The calls are entirely natural and express good health, but the neighbours do not always appreciate them… Cockatoos need a great deal of affection and presence, otherwise they can go as far as pecking and mutilating themselves.

Other, less costly species can also make delightful companions: mainly the budgerigar, the lovebirds and the cockatiel. Smaller than true parrots, they are able to say several words and to whistle very well. They are better suited to a family with children.

The choice also depends on the space you can give them (indoor cage or outdoor aviary). Beware too of the legislation that prohibits the purchase of protected species.

The purchase

You must observe carefully the bird you are thinking of buying, and make sure it is healthy: it must be lively and alert, its eye bright and wide open, its plumage well ordered, not ruffled. Reject any bird that is hunched up, sad, listless or breathless. You must observe the bird patiently, without getting too close. If you are too near, a bird can adjust its posture and thus appear normal. If possible, look at the colour of the droppings: they should be dark and flecked with white. Liquid, greenish or bloody droppings are the sign of a sick bird.

Once you have formed a first impression by observing from a distance, you must take the bird in your hands. You then check that it is neither thin (a protruding keel bone) nor too fat. The wings must be in good condition. The cloacal area must not be irritated or inflamed, and must be clean. By blowing on the belly feathers, the skin should appear pink, but never bluish or purplish. The feet must be clean and neat, not swollen.

Once the bird has been bought, it is wise to isolate it from the other birds (if you have others), and to put it through a quarantine before placing it with the others, because it may still be harbouring disease germs that take a long time to detect. If it was kept warm, it is essential to keep it in the same conditions. It will only be able to go into an outdoor aviary after a winter spent indoors, unless you acquire it in late spring or early summer.

The housing

Indoors or outdoors?

In general, psittacines born in captivity are robust birds accustomed to our climates. They can live outdoors, without added heating in winter. Their plumage develops according to the seasons and they are able to withstand cold, dry weather without any problem. A simple shelter is enough for them.

For an imported bird, the housing will depend on the season of purchase. A parrot bought in winter, kept in a heated room, will of course have to be housed indoors in a heated shelter until spring, when it can then be moved outdoors; it will have the time needed to acclimatise and can then spend the whole year outside.

The cage

There are many models of cage on the market. The choice should always fall on the largest volume, favouring length rather than height, unlike most of the cages available on the market. The cage is essential because it is the bird's private domain, its “home”. It must be functional and easy to clean.

The perches must not be too numerous, so as not to clutter the living space of the occupant(s) (two are enough). The ideal is a perch of natural wood, that is, a “living” branch of a tree, such as willow, hazel or a fruit tree. These perches provide a varied, non-uniform diameter. They are very good for the joints of the feet and they can also be gnawed, thus helping to wear down the birds' beaks and keeping them occupied for long periods.

The swing is little used and clutters the living space. Only the budgerigar finds happiness in it.

The feeders and the drinker must be easy to access and wide enough for a good grip.

The bottom of the cage is usually removable and therefore easy to clean.

For large parrots, the cage must be spacious and very sturdy.

For the birds to feel safe, the cage must be set up along a wall, and preferably in a corner, with no access behind it. It must be sheltered from full sun and from draughts. Beware too of street lamps left on all night, which could stop the birds from sleeping properly. The level of the cage must be at eye height.

The free-standing perch is shaped like a “T” and rests on a base. It allows the parrot to be out of its cage without tying up the shoulder or arm of its owner. The bird thus has its independence, and it can move freely from its cage to its perch and back. On the other hand, it is not advisable to leave it free out of its cage if no one is there to supervise it. It could cause damage to the furniture.

Some free-standing perches are fitted with a small chain to tie the bird's leg. Its use is strongly discouraged, because it can cause serious injuries should the bird suddenly decide to fly off (risk of fracture, or of the bird being left hanging by its leg). There are also perches that attach above the bird's cage, allowing it to perch “in the open air”.

The outdoor aviary

Good housing is a place where the birds feel comfortable, are not disturbed, find nesting sites to their liking, and in which they can meet their natural needs: food, but also sunbathing, rain baths or showers. Psittacines need space. For most of them, a cage is absolutely unsuitable. For their well-being and for our pleasure, an outdoor aviary is ideal.

The dimensions of the aviary vary of course with the species. The larger the bird, the longer the aviary must be to allow long flights. A length of 2 metres may suffice for small species such as lovebirds, but double that must be allowed for the large species. A width of one metre is most often sufficient if a single pair occupies the aviary. In the case of colonies (budgerigars, lovebirds, cockatiels), a width of 2 metres will be welcome, as it will be for birds with a large wingspan, such as macaws.

For better observation, the aviary should be near the house, but this will depend on the species. For the noisiest, such as cockatoos or amazons, it will be preferable to move it a little further away. But the small occupants must not disturb the neighbours! The site should be chosen in a sheltered, quiet spot, not too close to the road and to street lamps left on all night, if possible with a few trees that can provide shade and a windbreak. You must plan a proper path between the house and the aviary, because the birds need daily care, even in bad weather. You must also bear in mind that, depending on the dimensions of the aviary and the type of construction, a building permit may be required.

Before settling definitively on the site, you can also consider the possibility of enlarging the aviary or adding several new aviaries. A passion for psittacines rarely stops at a single species! Moreover, the young obtained must most often be separated from the parents early on.

It is preferable not to build near a pond, because it may attract certain biting insects that could disturb the parakeets, mainly the young ones.

The typical aviary consists of 2 parts: an outdoor, unsheltered aviary, and a dry shelter.

The outdoor aviary must not be too cluttered with perches; a single one at each end is enough. A shallow bath or a small, shallow pool is welcome, as baths are much appreciated. For the majority of species, plantings are to be ruled out, as they would not long survive their destructive beaks…

The containers

There are many types of container on the market. Stainless steel containers should be preferred over plastic ones, which would quickly be gnawed. Some birds love to play and throw their food container on the floor. To prevent this, you can fix the container in place or choose a heavier material, such as glass, especially for drinking. For large cages or aviaries, there are systems of pivoting trays on which stainless steel feeders are fixed, allowing the birds to be fed without having to open the cage or aviary.

The toys

They are essential to the birds' balance, and keep them occupied for a long time. They must be chosen according to the species of bird and the sturdiness of the object. Care must be taken that the toy is easy to clean, that there is no risk of choking or of injury from ingestion, and of course no risk of poisoning.

Examples of toys: thick ropes, ladders, bells, mirrors (unbreakable), stacks of cubes joined together by a rope, fresh branches with their leaves and buds…

Common diseases

Like all birds, psittacines mask illness for a long time: by the time the signs become visible, the situation is often already serious.

A bird that keeps its feathers fluffed up, stays motionless at the bottom of the cage, dozes or refuses to eat should alert you. In the bird, these subtle signs are often already late ones: you must not wait.

Lack of attention, boredom or stress often drive these birds to pluck out their feathers, or even to bite their skin (feather plucking, self-mutilation). Certain infections also affect the feathers and beak (beak and feather disease, or PBFD) and cause lasting damage to the plumage.

An infection called psittacosis (or chlamydiosis) can leave the bird listless, fluffed up and without appetite; it can also be passed on to humans. A diet that is too poor eventually lacks certain vitamins (especially vitamin A). The beak and claws can also grow too long. In the female, an egg can become stuck (egg binding): fluffed up, at the bottom of the cage, she strains without result. This is an emergency.

Many psittacines live a very long time: regular veterinary follow-up, even when all is well, helps to detect problems early.